L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon

In January, London's local newspaper had the following headline - "London named food capital of world … by French chef". In the article that followed, it was reported that Joel Robuchon had said that he "would argue that London is very possible the gastronomic capital of the world." This was praise indeed, and certainly worth listening to, as Joel Robuchon has the largest tally of Michelin stars of any chef, and was once named 'chef of the century'.

So I decided to investigate. I've never thought of going to Michelin-starred restaurants before; I always imagined they would be way beyond my price range, even for a celebration. But to my surprise, many seem to have lunch menus that are affordable. OK, not every day maybe, but for something a little bit special, a two course menu at £22 seems extremely reasonable for the world's most awarded chef! And at that sort of price, it's not too much to add into a holiday budget.

M Robuchon has a restaurant neatly positioned between Soho and Covent Garden, convenient for both shoppers and theatre-goers. In black and red, the decor gives the L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon a very individual atmosphere. The ground floor, where we sat for lunch, is arranged around the bar, and from our stools we were able to see into the kitchen. Judging from their lovely website, a more intimate atmosphere exists upstairs.

My friend and I were cautious, ordering salmon on a fennel cheesecake followed by lamb with tempura vegetables; another time, I might go for a more adventurous mix of flavours. The food was beautifully cooked and presented; the service charming and friendly. The waitress could not have been nicer when I mumbled that I was too squeamish to eat my meat red. It was taken back to the kitchen red; it returned to me brown, just how I like it. It may not have been what they intended, but it was still the most delicious, tender piece of lamb I think I have ever tasted.

Many of London's hotels have excellent restaurants, but anyone travelling as part of an organised trip is likely to miss this side of London life. I have certainly been horrified by meals that are served up to groups I work with. Why do we present so many visitors with "bangers & mash" or "shepherd's pie"? I have stared in disbelief at plates of runny mashed potato and rather grey meat, and just felt extremely embarrassed that so many visitors go away from Britain with the impression that nothing has changed since 1950 and wartime rationing!!

To return to quoting M. Robuchon, "It's only in London that you find every conceivable style of cooking. When it comes to what's new in cooking, to innovative cuisine, it's all happening in London." Not to be missed, in fact!

L'Atelier Robuchon is at 13-15 West Street, London, WC2. The nearest underground stations are Tottenham Court Rd., Leicester Square or Covent Garden.